


Paris
City Tour
Our history begins here. More than 2,200 years ago the Celtic tribe
of the Parisii settled on the Île de la Cité, the heart of the
city. Today the island floats like a small, green oasis in the middle of
the big city jungle, where traffic is hectic and the masses always seem
to be in a hurry. ‘Square du Vert Galant’ is the green garden at the
very tip of the island. The name is an allusion to the romantic
adventures of Henry IV. An equestrian statue was erected for the king. A
passage connects the statue with the idyllic park.
We leave the bon vivant behind and stroll across Quai de l’Horloge
to the Conciergerie, a part of the old royal palace that already
served as a state prison in the 14th century. The blue-blooded ‘visitors’book’
starts with Ravaillac, who murdered Henry IV in 1610, and goes on to
Cartouche, the notorious highwayman, and to Robespierre and Danton. Do
you hear sobbing in that cell over there? Here the fate of that proud
queen Marie-Antoinette was sealed.
Around the corner, erected on the spot of the former royal palace,
stands the Palais de Justice, the high court. During the
Revolution more than 2,600 death sentences were pronounced here in two
years’time. The condemned were then taken by cart to the guillotine on
Place de la Concorde.
Let’s return to more pleasant things. In the complex of buildings
that is the Palais de Justice lies Sainte-Chapelle. With its
wonderful stained-glass windows it is one of the oldest and most
beautiful houses of God in Paris.
Our tour leads us along Quai de la Corse. We pass the blooming
splendour of the flower stalls and arrive at the grand Notre-Dame.
Plans to build the cathedral already existed in 1163, but the
construction only finished in the 13th century. This medieval symbol of
the city is one of the most important sacral buildings in Early Gothic
style in the world. Admire the gothic west front with its three portals,
the beautiful rose window, the king’s gallery and the church towers,
of which the tops offer a fantastic view on the city. It is well worth a
climb. And Quasimodo sends you his greetings!
We continue our stroll through Rue d’Arcole with its souvenir
shops. Crossing the bridge to the other Bank of the River Seine, we can
see the bouquinistes (booksellers) on the right along Quai de l’Hôtel
de Ville waiting for customers. The mobile bookshops are called ‘boîtes’
(boxes). Rumours abound about customers finding ancient treasures,
but even if they are only legends and perhaps a PR-stunt from the guild
of literary bookstalll holders, browsing amongst old books and pictures,
picture postcards and maps is always good fun…and free!
Let’s leave this mini book fair behind now, and let’s have a look
at the beautiful façade of the Hôtel de Ville. The big square
in front used to be called ‘Place de Grève’ or ‘Embankment.’
It was here that the River Seine bargemen unloaded their cargo.
We leave the Paris government seat behind and turn into Rue de
Rivoli with its milling human masses. The name of the street refers
to one of Napoleon’s military victories, when he defeated the
Austrians close to Rivoli, a town in the north of Italy, in 1797. The
emperor did not live to see this great street. Rue de Rivoli was only
finished in 1833, when Napoleon had already passed away. Today the
street is a paradise for strollers and window-shoppers alike, what with
its eminent consumer temples under vaulted passages, its cafés and
restaurants, bookshops and art shops where you can buy fine art prints
and reproductions of famous paintings. The Louvre already casts
its shadow!
There
it is! The Louvre. With its 15 acres (6 hectares) of exhibition surface
it is undoubtedly the largest museum in the world! The origin of this
impressive complex goes back to the 12th century. First the Louvre was a
fortress and a royal palace, but after the Revolution it opened its
doors in 1793 as an art museum. Do go in, if only for just one glance at
the serene smile of the Mona Lisa. The restaurant (‘Le Grand Louvre’) is
a must for lunch as it has a good view of the gigantic glass pyramid,
designed by the American architect Ming Pei. The pyramid ‘graces’ the
main entrance to the museum. This glass and steel construction was for a
long time one of the most contested buildings in the country. Some
called it ‘gigantomania’ of the then President. Mitterrand loved grand
buildings, and he wished to extend and modernize the huge art collection
of the Louvre. The construction started in 1987 and finished in 1998. It
cost a staggering total of 1 miljard Euro.
Let us proceed and make a little stroll through the Tuileries. This
garden (25,000 square metres) enclosed the 17th century house of
Catherine de Médici. The palace itself was torn down in 1882, but the
classical park in renaissance style has been preserved. The stressed out
Parisian is sure to find peace and quiet amongst its many flowerbeds,
sculptures, basins and intimate avenues.
Place de la Concorde
will bring you back to earth. Only a moment
ago you were mesmerised by flowers and splashing fountains. Now cars,
buses and motorcycles rush past you in a hellish dance on the huge
roundabout that is the Place de la Concorde. In spite of the racket and
the noise the vast square remains one of the most beautiful squares in
the French capital. The construction started in 1755. In honour of Louis
XV an equestrian statue was erected. During the Revolution the fate of
the square took a different turn. The statue was removed from its plinth
by the rebellious people, and the head of Louis XVI rolled in the sand.
Today the imposing square is graced by a more than 3,000 year old
obelisk. Mehmet Ali, the Egyptian governor, presented the heavy
colossus, that until then had guarded a tempel at Luxor, to the French
king in 1831.
Breathtakingly beautiful is the view that opens up from Place de la
Concorde: the Champs-Elysées, France’s most famous boulevard,
stretches out glitteringly to the Arc de Triomphe in the distance. This
magnificent street has recently undergone a cleaning-up operation. The
work took two years. Today the boulevard once more radiates its
splendour: broadened pavements, new benches and lantern posts, a second
row of trees and no more parked cars. They are banished to underground
car parks. The image of the 1.8 km long avenue has finally been fully
restored! The question remains, however, whether the investment of
around 35,5 million Euro was
worth it. The Champs-Elysées, once the meetingplace of the Haute
Volée (the high and mighty), has lost much of its charm. What
remains is its eternal magical appeal.
Have you finished admiring the boulevard? Let’s go underground
then. From the Arc de Triomphe we take a tube ride on line 6 ‘Nation’
to Bir Hakeim. Back above ground, we are greeted by the giant steel
skeleton of the Eiffel Tower, the symbol par excellence of the city on
the River Seine. Once dubbed ‘awful’ and ‘superfluous’, today
tourists flock to this iron palissade. Expect to queue before you will
be able to ascend by lift to one of the several platforms of this ‘Dame
de Fer’ (Iron Lady). Conclude your tour through Paris with the
legendary view from the highest floor of the Eiffel Tower. Look down on
the sea of houses of this grand metropolis, and feel closer to the
heavens above Paris!
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